Close to the climax of “Once Upon a Mattress,” now revived on Broadway for the second time, Princess Winnifred (Sutton Foster) has reached the end of her rope. After the frustrations of the preceding two hours or so, Winnifred, the beleaguered would-be bride to a feckless prince, screws up her face and declares “What are you, some kind of nut?”
The audience at the Hudson Theatre lost it, but it wasn’t hard to feel — in this moment and throughout the production — left outside of a seeming inside joke, and one that doesn’t quite work. “Once Upon a Mattress,” little-loved by critics since its 1959 debut but perennially
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