WET MARKETS in China have suffered more than most businesses in the pandemic. After one in Wuhan was blamed as the source of covid-19, officials ordered others to shut. Shoppers have been reluctant to frequent bustling outdoor stalls selling fresh meat and vegetables. Many may never reopen—not least because they are being rapidly displaced by online rivals. The value of online sales of fresh produce in China, which amounted to 293bn yuan ($45bn) in 2019, before the pandemic, may rise to 570bn yuan by the end of 2021 (see chart). That would put e-grocers’ share of fresh-food spending at 11%, double what it was before
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